söndag 17 maj 2020

Blue 15th century dress


Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.


Here is a new dress that I made this winter! Im very exited about it since I have wanted to do it for many years but alot of stuff got in the way... I love the lacing on these gowns, it seem to have been very popular for a while since there is so many pictures with ladies wearing this type of dress in different colors. This dress is also german from late 15th century (yes... I know but I like it!), mostly around 1470s. The ladies in this pictures dont have any veils on just various braids that cross on top of the forhead. I cant get that to look good with my wig so Im wearing a late 15th century turban instead. I also made mine without a long skirt trail since Im working in the dress. Not correct but its to much in the way for a working girl. I did my yellow dress long first but had to cut it so I learnt from my mistake. If you only visit a market or other event then defenetly go for the long skirt! :)
Note the guys curly hair! They must have been doing alot of curling up on fabric scraps haha!

Some of the girls have "underskirts" of some kind. I wonder if they have a underdress or if its the painters addition. It might be a tight lacing underdress but I have only seen the linen ones yet so I have to search more. It is always hard to research under layers of clothing.


Love his jacket btw!


Dont know whats happening in this picture...but look at that brocade mrr!







Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.



Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.

The pattern

I made this dress aswell as the yellow dress with the typical plate arms that is common in this time period. They are super tricky to make and to make it even harder I made a new version since the arm has a higher slit than my yellow dress, so had to make a new pattern. Since I was in a hurry for a market as usuall I didnt have to much time to perfect the back (soo hard to do that on your self umg..!) but it will do. If I would remake it I would give it a bit more range of movement over the shoulder/arms. On to the patern: Exept for the mog boy dress there are fragments from Lengberg castle that was found not to long ago. In the picture below are pieces of lining from this kind of dress (yey!) These finding are so great since they let us know more about the construction. I like the gore solution in the back and will defenetly try this on the next one, I did a straight top since I have seen that on many pictures aswell (see picture after this one). There is probably many ways to do it.

From publication by
Beatrix Nutz


This is how I made my back.





My pattern pieces basicly look like Queen Margareta of sweden´s dress but with the plate arm back thingy and I aded gores on the sides. I made the pieces in extra wide A-shapes for the pleating in the front.


I couldnt stand the tought of putting linen lining in it (cold/heat sensative) so I decided to skip lining and do a solution like this, with linen to cover the pleats and then I made a linen "waist ribbon" that I could sew the front pleats onto. Ps: I didnt have any blue linen thread so I just took regular instead.











Lining in the arms to suport the lacing wholes.


Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.

Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.


Here you can see the front pleats better. I sewed them into my hidden waist ribbon, to keep them in pleace.


Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.


Foto by Pernilla Björnsdotter edited by me.

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