fredag 26 juni 2020

18th century pockets

18th century pockets
I have lost my old embroidered pockets so I decided to make a new pair of some scrap fabric.
A simple tutorial:

18th century pockets
1. Draw the pockets on a paper, use the stencil to cut 4 pieces of fabric.
2. Cut the opening on 2 of the pieces. Use a narrow ribbon to make the edge, I used 12mm cotton ribbon. Sew the ribbon from the outside, turn over and then sew the backside with whipstitch as you do on stays.

striped 18th century pockets

striped 18th century pockets
3. Pin the fronts together with the backs and sew them together with the ribbon the same way you did before.
4. Use a wider ribbon to make the waist band. Pin the pockets to the waistband while you have it on you so you can adjust the placing. Sew the ribbon onto the pockets from the front, turn itover and sew it with whipstiches again all the way to the edges.

And done!

18th century pockets

18th century pockets

måndag 22 juni 2020

Pink 18th century stays- part 2

How to make pink stays- part 2

pink stays
A ducktape dressform is great to make small changes! It is not as good as your self as you have bones to work around but its better than having to lace up every time! :)

And here are the final stays!!

pink 18th century stays
pink stays
I just realized I never did the shoulder straps haha! I will add those later then..

pink 18th century stayspink 18th century stays

pink 18th century stays back

pink stays lacing

pink 18th century stays

Making pink 18th century stays- part 1

How to make pink stays 1780-1790

pink stayspink stays

This winter and a bit of last winter I have been digging more into stays making. I have been making two stays at the same time but I decided to finnish this one first. Pinterest has been a great source to find the right materials and layers and off course the wonderful Patterns of fashion 5! 
The stays I wanted to make was these 1785-1790 stays from McCord Museum

Patterns of fashion 5

So first the toile! Not a easy task to do on yourself...! And I dont have an easy body type for this shape...
My best tip is to not just look in the mirror, ask someoneto take pictures so you can see better where to
adjust and if you want; compare to a original pair of stays. It took me alot of tries. After like 4 toiles I
was happy. I made a lot of misstakes like to long, to tight over the chest, to short in the front and so on
 but I have learnt alot!
Trying on stays front

pink 18th century stays sidepink 18th century stays back

Now to try with all layers of fabric:

Materials I used (layers from the outside):

-Pink linen/cotton fabric
-Heavy linen canvas
-265g linen
-creme colored linen lining

-4mm plastic boning (fake whalebone)
-Cotton ribbons
-White and natural linen thread

I made most seams by machine and the edges and embroidery by hand. If you do it all by hand you would sew the seam allowance first on each piece and then sew the pieces together.

stays pattern

stays pattern

outside of the stays

inside of stays

stays boning

stays boning
boned stays

stays lacing holes

First fitting:

First try: Good in the front. Slits to low in the sides and back.

Second try:

Good fit but to long on the sides, need some cutting; a cm or two.

18th century stays lacing

Better! Now I felt ready to make the inside. First I sewed the curved line decorations and then I aded a waistband for strength, boning over the chest held by a cotton tape, and finally 3 layers of linen canvas on the "beak".

inside of stays
edge ribbon stays
Next step is herringbone cotton tape over the seams ad a 12mm cotton tape over the edge.
edge cotton ribbon stays

stays lining

finnished stays